Vertex MP45M Review

Context is important to me, as it should be. I like to add detail. I like to use brackets (as do many of us). I like to paint a picture, set the scene. 

I had been a little skeptical about Vertex. My good friend Dan (@timely_moments) endured some of it. The problem is, I am naturally repelled by hype. I like the watches people aren’t talking about. The ones you come across in an obscure forum post from 10 years ago or a badly written eBay ad. It’s no secret that I am a big fan of Seiko, but even with my adoration for one of the world’s biggest watch brands, I have always championed the anti-hype: SKX013 over 007, Shogun over Sumo & Samurai, RAF Gen 2 over Gen 1, Kinetic over Solar, it’s what I do. It’s for similar reasons that I’ve passed up on a few BB58 opportunities over the years, despite it being a fundamentally good watch. 

What I’d seen of Vertex was lots of great media, posted and/or shared by some popular players within the watch community as well as some articles in the usual places. I’d seen some excellent lume shots and some retro-modern military vibes (both very much barking up my tree). There was and is a buzz around Vertex, but then I’d also seen some pricing. I am a devout bargain hunter and when a brand comes along, or re enters the market, selling tool (looking) watches at 2 grand plus, my back is up.

In comes Dan (@timely_moments) with an admirable plan. Dan proposed to send me one of his own Vertex watches for a little while, without any pretext, to allow me to confirm or convert my stance. An opportunity of which I have been very grateful (thank you Dan).

So what did Dan send to me? The Vertex MP45 M. This mono-pusher chronograph takes its roots from an idea originally slated in 1945 that never reached production with Vertex on the dial, thanks to post-war rationing. Designed for use in unexploded ordnance disposal, the single pusher for start, stop and reset is simple and purposeful.

First impressions time. That first wear was when I learnt of this watch’s ability to hide its heft. It wears well for a 14.8mm thick chrono. The MP45 came to me on a Vertex suede deployant strap, a really well made item with a solid clasp however, after an hour or two it became clear the curvature of the deployant was not a match for my wrist shape. It was time to switch it out for a nato.

https://vertex-watches.com/en-us/collections/the-mp45-series

Mid switch up was a great time to check out the display caseback. This version being the mechanical, there was no rotor obscuring the beauty of that elabore grade Sellita. There’s not too much to see here though besides some nice striping and there’s a cutout that appears to be for a gear that was never fitted. I’m guessing a carry over from the automatic version. I’ve not tried the auto but it’s (even) thicker at 15.9mm and I do feel this watch suits the manual winding, particularly when the winding is so satisfying, but more on that later. It measures 40mm across with a lug to lug of 48.5mm. 

Back top side up, it’s certainly a watch that hides its finer points. The more you look, the more you see. The brushing along the asymmetric right side of the case follows the case profiling perfectly, emphasising that almost bulbous ‘crown guard’. I’d like to inspect them side by side but I could imagine the MP45 case as an M100 with the chronograph particulars lumped onto the side in an almost modular fashion. The left most lugs and case side of the MP45 flow in a similar fashion to its small-seconds brother.

The dial numerals are a feature of this watch, and the brand in general, that have become somewhat the first bullet point when Vertex is mentioned, and for good reason. These molded sculptures of lume material are every bit as sharp as they ought to be. Despite them being fairly small elements, the tolerances here are clearly ‘dialled’ in. They are razor sharp at the edges and corners. When it comes to the dial, this is where your money is going! There is a subtle radial effect within each sub-dial which contrasts nicely against the flatter black of the main dial and the white printing over the top is flawless. My only criticism regarding the dial and handset would be that the BGW9 lume on this version leaves a lot to be desired. This can be typical of BGW9 but after seeing the C3 floodlighting on offer by the M100, it’s a shame those intricate numerals are a touch wasted after dark. 

The hands are unassuming at first, but with a little back and forth under the light, the polished facets and again, razor sharp edges start to show their worth. The left sub-dial handles running seconds and the right allows for 30 minutes of chronograph timing. As the central chronograph seconds approaches the turn of a minute whilst timing, the minute counter hand starts to load up ready for a flick to the next minute marker on cue. This being an 8 beat movement, that small running seconds hand appears smooth as anything with the central chrono seconds having a more noticeable but equally satisfying scurry around the dial. 

With only one chronograph pusher, it has a lot to live up to. The pusher itself has a black inlay which is a subtle detail I didn’t notice at first. One click to start, one click to stop and the third click to reset. The SW510 being a cam operated chronograph based on the 7750, the operation is as satisfying as you might’ve hoped, crisp clicks for all three of the monopusher’s functions. I would say that there is a difference in pressure and feel for each operation’s press which is noticeable. I would have preferred a more consistent feel as the chrono cycled through start, stop and reset, but I suspect there are technical constraints to this that centre around the cam system. Thankfully, the reset brings a high level of precision to mark the end of a timing event with the hands snapping to zero instantly.

Being a hand wound movement, the large diameter crown is helpful with enough protrusion in the winding position to get some purchase when it’s top up time. The ratchet when winding is distinctly positive and the solidity when doing so tells me this crown winding was shored up for the hand wound version of this caliber. A fair few turns are required to hit a winding stop that arrives with a firm sprung quality rather than an abrupt end. A pet hate of mine recently is the trend to remove the rotor from an automatic caliber and claim a movement to be hand wound. Sellita has clearly put some time into this SW510M, to ensure it has the appropriate upgrades to cope with some thumb turning every couple of days (63 hours power reserve on the most recent version). Setting (and hacking) is as smooth as you would expect although a noticeable amount of force is required to pull out the crown, the setting position arrives with a solidly sharp click, as does the return to home afterwards. 

Protruding upwards from the case are a steeply angled pilot bezel and within it, a slightly domed sapphire crystal which did appear to have a helping of clear AR coating on the underside. As someone that’s yet to smash a sapphire but dented plenty of steel, the crystal being the highest element here gave me some confidence when wearing this loaner (although the responsibility of looking after this piece that cost more than anything in my own watch box was distracting at times!).

The brief for Vertex’s relaunch (from the interviews I have heard with Don) seemed to be: resurrecting the brand started by his ancestral family but with modern technology and ultimately using the highest standards of Swiss watch production outside of an artisanal watchmaker. It’s fair to say, the brief was met. It’s certainly a ‘luxury’ watch with the style and functionality of a military tool watch. Now Vertex aren’t the first and only brand to head into this bracket but they are amongst a handful of brands that operate in the niche exclusively. Even looking at the other players in that Dirty Dozen lineup that are still operating today, most offer quite diverse catalogues. This did leave me with some thoughts on the watch and its target market…

I’d guess that there are probably two categories of imminent MP45 buyer. There are certainly people who will see the MP45 online, in person, wherever, and be sold, instantly. Then there are those who might be looking for a Mil-Spec/Tool watch chrono who have it shortlisted. I would say those short-listers will very likely come around to the idea after handling it and/or spending a little time fawning over some online media. If you’re in the market for this kind of watch, it’ll be waving at you. 

It’s about now we should really talk about pricing. This watch is £3480 in the UK including  VAT and ships with three straps, leather, rubber and nato. It’s not play money for sure, and it’s certainly what I’d describe as ‘strong’, but in no way am I going to insinuate this should be a £1000 watch. At £3480, you really, really have to want it and I can’t help but feel that if the total price started with a 2, its appeal would be broadened substantially. But for all I know, Vertex could be making £50 on each watch, so I’m not taking a stab at the price, more of a scratch. I did think that lined up next to something like the Hamilton Pilot Pioneer Mechanical, which can be scooped for less than £2k new on a good day, the Hamilton starts to look like a bargain. Mono-pusher Chronos do seem to carry a premium over their two pusher counterparts, that is worth bearing in mind when running any comparisons.

I can’t help but feel that at £3480 especially, the MP45 is unlikely to be the kind of watch that chances its way into a collection. That’s not necessarily a bad thing. I would say if you’re not already in one of the two categories of imminent buyer mentioned above, unless you are friends with a military watch nut like Dan, or find yourself walking past the Vertex boutique in Mayfair, you won’t likely get a chance to have it charm you. That’s what this watch needs, a chance to charm, and I’m glad I gave it one. Because on a quick glance, especially online, you’d be forgiven in finding it a little boring, but there is something to be said for the pursuit of understated perfection and precision. Find an MP45, stare at it, wind it, click that pusher, stare at it some more, give it more than 5 minutes. Then tell me you’re not thinking about it for weeks later. 

Joe @SeiKoded